🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.